Everyone wants to look younger.
The original anti-ageing skincare products were topical Retinoids i.e. products derived from Vitamin A, as well as Alpha Hydroxy Acids. These products certainly have anti-ageing properties but to a lesser or greater degree may be irritating to the skin. We usually recommend that they are used at night and introduced in lower concentrations over a period of time. In this way, most people will develop a tolerance to them.
However, there is a small but significant percentage of people who are not able to tolerate these products at all. These are people with a more sensitive skin who may have a background history of eczema or they may have rosacea. The challenge to the cosmeceutical industry is to be able to produce products that have an anti-ageing effect but that do not irritate the skin.
Thankfully these days there are a lot of new anti-ageing products on the market that fill this gap. These products tend to be more gentle and they are able to restore the skin barrier function, they help to reduce pigmentation, reduce redness and flushing of the skin, while providing anti-ageing benefits.
Neostrata were the pioneers in producing Poly Hydroxy Acids/Bionics i.e. newer generation anti-ageing ingredients such as Gluconolactone and Lactobionic Acid that help to restore the barrier function of the skin.
NeoGlucosamine®, a building block of hyaluronic acid, the skin’s natural filler, gently exfoliates the skin, helping to reduce the appearance of uneven pigment and superficial pigmentation. This is a patented ingredient from NeoStrata.
These days many Retinols are formulated in an encapsulated delivery system which allows for the slow release of the Retinol making it less irritating. I have found that some of my patients with more sensitive skins are able to use it once or twice a week especially when it is formulated with the Retinol+NAG (NeoGlucosamine).
Niacinamide is a very versatile ingredient – it also improves the barrier function of the skin, lightens pigmentation, helps to reduce oiliness in acne-prone skins and has gentle anti-ageing effects.
Hyaluronic Acid is often included in these new generation creams and serums and acts as a humectant – i.e. draws water into itself and plumps out the skin.
There has been a lot of innovation in the Anti-Ageing sensitive skincare market in the past few years and it’s something we believe will continue to be on an upward trend. Statistics show that sensitive skin is a growing concern globally.